BigBendBroncos
Bronco Tech => General Tech => Topic started by: 75JOE on October 10, 2013, 10:35:48 PM
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Should I use pans from one of the vendors or try to fab from sheet metal. Kelly Sheet Metal quoted $54.00 for a 8x10 sheet of 18 ga. and will cut it down to rough sizes I would need? Floor will be covered with vinyl or carpet so appearance will not be an issue. I realize that without the ribs there may be some flex.
I have never done fabrication, and do not currently have a metal brake.
Also, didn't some of you use Raptor Liner? If yes, how has it held up and are you happy with it?
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I made my own but the vendor replacements will be easier. I only made my own so I could justify buying a plasma cutter, metal brake and new welder. ;D
I think Bret used the Raptor liner and it turned out nice but he isn't finished with his Bronco so not sure how it will hold up long term.
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Thanks. Will probably go with the vendor pans. Will get a new MIG for the process.
Any other suggestions for DIY liner?
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I used POR15 and then covered with peel and seal. I've got some POR left over and it is yours if you want it. I keep it in the fridge, per the directions, so it should be good.
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Hey Joe, How's the floor pan project going?
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Sorry...missed this earlier. Mother in law developed some health problems and passed a couple of weeks ago. Had not touched it in a couple of months until this Saturday. Got the one inch WH body lift installed this weekend. Will hopefully start cutting the rot out this weekend. That is after I get the tension off the steering. Loosened the emergency brake, dropped the shroud and disconnected the shifter linkage but not the steering column. :o
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Sorry to hear about your Mother in-law.
I can't remember how the 75 column is setup but the one on my 77 was able to slide out to make up for the different angle with no problem. I did have to remove it and heat it with a torch to melt some plastic inside that was holding it together. After that it slides in and out no problem.
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go with good floor pans...hand fab can be a job - me I was trying to keep my costs down but provide a solid metal repair to look good and last long time. do you have rot in your kick panels?
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I don't remember doing anything with my column other than disconnecting it at the steering box. When I did a 2" on my 73, I didn't have to take the column out either. Both had a double-D extendable lower shaft.
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I got the pans from Jeff's. Realized that by the time I tried to fab new ones I would be better off to go the pre-fab route. Kick panels are good fortunately.
Talked to WH today. They said to loosen bolts on both sides of the firewall where the column comes out and that should let it relax. Typing this I am wondering will that cause the steering wheel to push back?
It has factory PS so it has a rag joint.
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Hey Joe,
How are the floor pans coming along?
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Coming along slowly. Time is the biggest issue right now. Not sure what I dislike more, rust or spot welds. :)
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I hear ya, Spot welds are a pain but I HATE rust. >:(
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The cutting out is easy...my body contortions to do the welds kill me.
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Spoke too soon about the kick panel. Did find a bad spot. Only about 1" square. It is like peeling an onion. Does anyone have a recommendation on a seam sealer? Brush on or tube? Waiting now for the POR 15 people to open. Paint jobber says seam seal then POR 15 but web info says POR 15 then seam seal.
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Gary, I now agree with you. Rust IS worse than spot welds. >:(
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I would POR 15 then seam seal. I used a few different types or seam sealer. The first was in a tube and made by 3M. It was water based and easy to smooth out. I used it on the exterior seams that you could see. I don't think I would use this type again because it is already getting rust back in the seam after only a few years. The second type I used is a polyurethane in a regular caulking tube. It's made for raid gutters and stuff like that. It hardens like rubber and tough as heck. Kinda messy to put on but is holding up well. I only used it on the seams you can't see, like floor and bed. The third kind is made by POR 15 and called POR patch. Comes in a small tube and smooths out well. I used it on my hard top seams before I coated it with the bed liner and it is holding up well. It is expensive and only comes in a small tube so I only used it on the seams you could see.
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That is what I was thinking. Did not make sense to me to put sealer on new unprotected metal. I would think that is just asking for trouble.
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stop by and get the POR15 I have...
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Here is mine...I fabricated the floors myself with 18 ga metal. Used same for patches for rust spots. This whole 'joint' was broke loose and the tub sagged about 2 inches - so I leveled off to frame then lined up and measured while supporting with a floor jack. So far all seems to line up great with the door on the truck. I will have to shim the doors slightly about 1/8th inch or so...this door also was one that I replaced the outer skin on as well.
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nice work!
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Nice work. Thanks for the pictures. That is almost identical to the problem on mine.