BigBendBroncos
Bronco Tech => Builds/Projects => Topic started by: oakback on February 12, 2013, 09:35:31 AM
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Gotta keep a list somewhere, or I'll forget what all I did.
I bought my '88 Custom almost 2 weeks ago, and I'm already enjoying the heck out of it.
Improvements so far (small stuff, but every bit helps):
mounted rear view mirror
installed new side-view mirrors
replaced window handle
bolted top down, with new U-nuts and 5/16" bolts
replaced door latch bushings (much less rattling!)
replaced rear window motor torque pins, huzzah for a working rear window and use of my tailgate!
blower noise fixed itself after a good talking-to
replaced headlight bulb, which promptly blew out...water getting in headlight housing
bolted starter in, after it was extremely loose and left me stranded with a grinding sound (luckily an easy fix!)...I'll come back with some loctite soon
To-do list:
drill holes in headlight housing for water drainage
replace brake booster (I can hear rushing air when on the brakes)
brake job...they work okay, but were sticking when I first got it, and pulls a bit to the right when on the brakes
flush heater core and rad (peace of mind thing)
check TPS (peace of mind)
remove the flimsy steps that are bolted to a weak/rusted spot
replace oil pressure sending unit
seafoam treatment (peace of mind)
Find power steering leak, and repair
wipers randomly stop, gotta figure that out (they seem to have fixed themselves)
tranny flush...it's shifting funny, hopefully that will help(it just needed more fluid)
ignition upgrade
repair broken vacuum lines
extend vent lines
check tranny vacuum modulator
With regards to the power steering, do they usually leak from a particular spot? Should I go ahead and replace the pump, or could I just need the lines?
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-K7aFYzpeqNU/URZfdZAsUpI/AAAAAAAABHw/5WEhGzZPGKU/s901/IMG_20130209_093825_656.jpg)
2/13-replaced headlight pigtail, wire was frayed and headlight went out; also replaced fuel pump relay, drilled holes in headlights
2/16-repaired tailgate latch, replaced the broken TG handle, added 2 nicer cables (got rid of the 1 rusty/frayed one)
2/17-replaced PS pump with Saginaw pump, made a huge mess (need to rebuild/replace the junkyard pump)
2/18-replaced junkyard pump with reman unit, and new belt
did seafoam treatment, through the brake booster vacuum line
3/1-replaced distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil, and spark plug wires
3/9-replaced spark plugs, advanced timing, installed passenger side step (pulled from '95 in PnP, minus the fiberglass overlay), and removed crappy driver side step
3/10-tail gate striker bushings, & aligned the TG & top for better rear window operation
4/26-rear and side emblems glued on, dome light fixed (works with driver side only)
4/27-replaced broken/hard vacuum lines with new rubber, new exhaust hanger welded on
5/5-started replacing front brakes: calipers, pads, rotors; also replacing passenger side bearings
5/6-passenger side bearings, races, and seal replaced
5/7-finished brakes & bled, plugged nail hole in tire, reassembled everything
5/8- Installed A-pillar grab handle for passenger, using rubber well nuts. It flexes way too much, I'll get some metal rivnuts and use those.
5/11-12- converted a/c compressor to on-board air, with tank mounted under back seat
5/14- replaced vacuum modulator and vacuum hose on tranny
5/15- fixed kickdown cable issue, shifts like new now!
5/19- Mile Marker manual locking hubs installed
5/25- Receiver hitch and winch installed
replaced starter and solenoid
6/15- adjusted the shifter, fixing the intermittent no-start issue
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Sounds like you have a good plan.
Clean the power steering components and it will be easier to find out where it's leaking.
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Will do, thanks.
My past 2 projects were RX-7s. One had a manual rack, the other one I ripped out the PS and installed the manual rack from the 1st car.
No experience with PS repair, but I was reading about those PS-pump-powered winches. Super cool!
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Yeah the Mile Marker winches are awesome. Super strong and don't run your battery dead during extended use. Area51 (Andy) on TORC has one on his GMC Jimmy.
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I've been making updates as I do things, in the first post.
Question, I need to replace my spark plugs, then I was going to advance my timing (according to this write-up (http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63592)). But I'm having a real hard time seeing the timing marks. I've been to 4 different auto parts stores, and they don't have those timing mark stickers. I tried nail polish, but it just ran everywhere, I couldn't get it to show off the marks.
What do most people do?
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usually sanding them down works for me, are you trying to see them with the light going or just trying to eyeball them with motor not running?
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X2, sand the balancer down, then you can mark it with a sharpie marker.
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usually sanding them down works for me, are you trying to see them with the light going or just trying to eyeball them with motor not running?
With the light going. I'll sand them down and try again, thanks!
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Pics of my latest mod:
(this was before I wired the pressure switch, testing for leaks)
(http://suxorz.com/images/2013/05/13/K2qvx.jpg)
(http://suxorz.com/images/2013/05/13/9bXc.jpg)
Only spent about $25! I had to get the lubricator from HF, an air hose to cut up, and a couple small fittings. I cannibalized my low-quality Campbell Hausfeld compressor that recently stopped making pressure. I also had a "spare air" tank, and a bunch of random air fittings my dad gave me a while back.
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That's awesome, I always wanted to do an OA system on my 77.
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That's awesome, I always wanted to do an OA system on my 77.
I've got a york for you.
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That's awesome, I always wanted to do an OA system on my 77.
Thanks! It really wasn't that difficult, since I used the stock a/c compressor, and didn't have to fab any brackets or anything (I don't have welder), and since I had most of the parts I needed. I probably spent more time figuring out which fittings to use and how to mount the tank, than I did actually assembling it.
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I got stuck on Saturday. 3 wheels on the ground, one up spinning. I don't know why my auto locking hubs decided to stop working. When I replaced the front brakes, I cleaned the hubs up and dunked them in ATF like you're supposed to. The clutches in my rear diff are worn out too, I plan on fixing that soon. I was convinced I could get us out with digging, and jacking it up and stacking stuff under the tires (to get the axle off the bottom of this mud hole), but after 3 hours or so, we eventually got someone to show up and pull us out.
Anyways, I didn't want that to happen again, so I picked these up for O'Reilly's later that day:
(http://suxorz.com/images/2013/05/20/sgCV.jpg)
I also got a used receiver hitch. It looks like I'd have to drill holes in the frame to mount it. Should I just have a shop weld it to the frame instead? Or would this be a bad idea?
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I wouldn't weld it, just drill and use grade 8 bolts.
The manual hubs are a big improvement over the unreliable autos. On our last trail ride one of our members had his auto hubs fail and we had to install a set of manual hubs on a sand dune. ;D
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yes man hubs are a must for off-road. however your story of 3 wheels on ground one in air spinning would most likely has nothing to do with auto hub not working. Unless one spinning was a rear and both front where on solid ground and not spinning at all. I got my 96 f150 like that in a pit. two opposite wheels (Front - rear) in air and no go. added a little ebrake to simulate traction to send some power to other side and at same time stuck log under wheel in air and jumped in bed while someone else drove it out.
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Unless one spinning was a rear and both front where on solid ground and not spinning at all.
That's exactly what happened. I know the auto hubs worked before, I've seen both front tires spin out in sand. I think what happened was I drove into this particular watery hole, and the hubs weren't sealed properly (my fault), which caused them to not work. Everything inside the hubs looked in fine condition upon removal (just wet). I'm sure I could reinstall them and seal properly, but I don't like the idea of not knowing when they're working, and when they've decided not to work (when you need them most).
When I got out of the hole, I parked it on the dry sandy road, made sure 4x4 was engaged, and floored it. I hung my head out my window, passenger did the same at his, neither of us saw the front tires spin at all.
I wouldn't weld it, just drill and use grade 8 bolts.
In the installation videos I've seen, the kits come with a backing plate for each bolt. Some use carriage bolts with the square portion that locks into the plate. Should I bother with plates, or just get some thick washers? Any recommendations on where to purchase the hardware (in Tally)?
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I've been reading all day about lockers and diffs and such. I was looking into getting a drop-in locker, since I don't trust the factory limited slip (even rebuilt) to have the strength to turn a wheel wedged in a rut, when the opposing wheel is off the ground.
Then I read that I'd have to use an open diff carrier, there are no drop-in options for the limited slip carrier. With that amount of money and effort involved (paying someone to set the gear backlash, parts, etc.), a winch has become the cheaper option. I'll probably rebuild the factory LSD clutch pack at a later date, but it looks like a winch is my next purchase after getting the hitch installed. I'll be using the hitch winch mount, rather than getting a different bumper.
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take a look at the badland winches at harbor freight. From what I've read, they are pretty good bang for the buck. And don't be afraid of getting one that is too big. Better to have too much than not enough. I've got a 12k milemarker on mine.
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Yep, I'll definitely be getting a badland winch. First time I got stuck, a guy pulled me out with a badland winch. I was sold. Only legitimate complaint I've heard from people that actually own them is that they're slow, but it's a lot faster than using a jack and shovels and calling rednecks with trucks to come help you out!
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so on the auto hubs. IF you are not engaged in 4x4 before getting stuck I know they likely wont work and usually end up stripped. The truck needs to be rolling for the splines to engage. if the wheel isn't turning and you try to shift into 4x4 the spring pressure will push the splines together BUT the axle is turning fast enough and the wheel not at all to grind them down, but never fully engage. I have done this before on a 96 truck. the trick is stop before needing it, shift in, with window open slowly idle ahead until your hear two clicks, one each side. then your locked. BTW this is same method for 04 and up with IWH. So Raptors guys, you need to insure each hub clicks in before applying that 400hp. The difference on the Integrated wheel hub is that is run by vacuum. But Ford was smart and they default to locked. meaning with no engine vacuum you are locked, So they lock ever time you park the truck. and unlock when started, until switched in. this has two benefits. One is they are constantly being shifted so they stay nice and lubed and loose to be ready anytime needed. two is if you tear off a vacuum line you still have 4x4. BTW Warn makes the IWH for Ford.
manual is still best to me though.
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Raptors don't get stuck, even in two wheel drive. ;D
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then your not driving it right :D
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I always switch to 4x4 right after turning off pavement. I have never heard a click though, I think my bronco just makes too many random noises for me to hear it. Nothing was broken or out of sorts in the hub though, the auto hubs and springs all looked fine when I removed them.
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Installed the hitch receiver and winch this weekend. I lost the hook on a short trip in the woods (if you find it on 308, you're welcome). Bought a replacement and shackle at Tractor Supply.
(http://suxorz.com/images/2013/05/28/Vh3y.jpg)
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That will really come in handy. It would be cool to also have a receiver hitch on the front so you can use it on either end.
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That will really come in handy. It would be cool to also have a receiver hitch on the front so you can use it on either end.
I'd love to do that eventually, and the wiring would be much easier to route! I think I'd have to get a shop to custom cut/fit one on for me, there aren't front mount ones available commercially.
I have no need for a big, heavy bumper with a winch mount (or hitch receiver built in). It's not like I'm rock crawling, or even driving over much brush for that matter.
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how did you run the wires? where'd you get the connectors?
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I ran the wires in the frame, similar routing as the fuel lines, lots of zip ties. I got the connectors at Grainger, the brand is Anderson. Each connector comes with 2 spade-like terminals. One side of the terminal has a notch, the other is curved. You solder on the terminals, then they click into the connector (the notch catches a flat spring). The connectors go together and come apart easily (the curved sides contact each other).
(http://www.installer.com/photos/sb50.jpg)
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I know someone makes a front receiver hitch that just mounts behind a stock bumper. I think it's Reese. I was going to get one for my Superduty but I just got a brushguard/winch mount instead.
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You're right, I found one made by Curt. link (http://www.hitchsource.com/ford-bronco-ii-trailer-hitch-84-90-class-iii-p-29408.html)
edit: n/m, I think that's for a Bronco II